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Very noble words in the above video. But doing it peacefully can only be done on an individual basis, or by showing strength by forming militias if they continue to insist on using hired Jack Boots to do their dirty work.
Personal secession might have worked when the Trading With The Enemy Act suddenly meant the People of this great nation were the enemy. But kindly remember the words of Pogo “We have met the enemy and they are us” . Isn’t that true? How many people have the nerve to secede on a personal basis? How many send in their taxes? Oh sure, the Constitution forbids the people being taxed; so why do you send in taxes? Why do we fill their military? We help them build FEMA detention camps. Why? Pogo was absolutely correct, we are the enemy of ourselves and we feed the corporate United States of America by consent through our labor and our lives.

Let me give you some example.

The Illegitimate President’s health care reform passed the U.S. Supreme Court in a 5 – 4 decision . In 2014 you will have to decide what to do, pay the tax or buy the insurance. That’s right, the Court, the Obama Administration and the Congress have decided that you no longer have the right to turn down a contract, without paying a tax. I’d like to find that rule in the Uniform Commercial Code. If you have to the right to contract, then you have the right to not contract.
The government assumes too much, as the tax codes authority is all in [ ] brackets, meaning it has been omitted by their rules UNITED STATES PRINTING OFFICE STYLE MANUAL 2008 Publication , at Chapter 8, 8.19 — 8.20 In Bills, contracts, laws, ect., to indicate matters that is to be omitted.
Don’t look it up in the U.S. Code, look it up in Code of Federal Regulations and you will find brackets surrounding the authorization at the bottom of each statute, meaning it is unenforceable. It really is a voluntary tax and still you pay.

For anyone that hasn’t read Freedom Documents last posting maybe you should.

Here is a website that claims it has a comprehensive list of FEMA detention camps. But it needs to be updated, some are incorrect, though I know the camps exist.

In California, Fort Irwin is listed, it was supposedly shut down in the early 1970’s. But I have been there in the mid-70’s while serving in the National Guard. It is active, there were new barracks built with cinder block – 2 people to a room. It was very modern. There are runways there also, with aircraft on them. At the time, it was accessed off a dirt road near Shoshone, California; a back door.

In Nevada, the one listed at highway marker 112 along I-80 is totally incorrect. It is a normal state prison just to the east of Lovelock, Nevada. I have passed it several times when I lived in Northern Nevada. It was probably listed because there were problems with getting it open; it houses criminals.

One listed in Utah as Camp William, I believe is actually Dugway Proving Grounds. I spent a summer camp there. At the time there was an old B-25 sitting on the runway with sage brush growing all around it through the asphalt. At the gate to the airport there was a prop off the plane that you walked under to board a plane. Rumor has it that the plane was used in the above ground atom bomb tests in Nevada and the the crew flew through an atomic cloud. The chew died from radiation poisoning. I believe that is a true story, the B-25 was in pristine condition, but missing a prop. Dugway Proving Grounds used to test nerve gas and there was an accident there in the 60’s; several sheep were killed. When I worked in Elko, Nevada; I ran into a man that told me I was correct about the plane and couldn’t believe I had seen it. The plane has since been removed when the base was renovated.

I believe there is another camp in New Mexico. Some maps list a road just south of Roberts Lake as ‘Military Road’ on the other end it come out just north of Buck Hannen Mountain along New Mexico highway 15 near the Gila Hot Springs . The road makes a circle; using New Mexico highway 35, 15, and Military Road. There may be a landing field in the area, as I have seen military aircraft headed in that direction. It is well hidden inside the Gila Wilderness area, an easy site to keep eyes away from, because of road restrictions in the wilderness area.

Please send in updates on this material. Be a good scout and report back using your eyes and ears. Quit consenting to tyranny. This is called intelligence gathering!!! I will take the data and leave you anonymous.

The military is scrapping another uniform that cost $4 billion to produce. It seems it makes soldiers easier to target. They are now looking at multi-cam and so should you depending on your terrain. Multi-cam looks brown and tan in desert environments and looks green and brown in a woodlands environment.

Making Soap – part

Other Soap Ingredient

Water: Water is a basic ingredient of making soap.  Care must be taken to not use hard water for making soap, unless you add washing soda.  Water from springs, wells, rivers is generally hard, but rain water is not.  You can test your water by making a solution of denatured or wood alcohol and pure soap.  At room temperature dissolve soap into the solution until it is pretty thick.  Then find two small identical medicine or spice bottles.   In one bottle put distilled or rain water and in the other put the water you are testing.  Use an eye dropper to put the soap/alcohol solution in each bottle and use the same number of drops in each.  Shake the solution, the idea is to get suds to appear in the bottle for at least 1 minute.  With the distilled water that is pretty easy, but not if your water is too hard.

Perfume:   All soap absorbs odors.  As Ron points out rose petal tea will scent the soap with rose perfume.  You can use either your favorite flower petals, or use oil of sassafras, oil of lavender, or oil of lemon.  You can use your favorite perfume as well, just make sure there is no alcohol left in it by boiling it out.  

 Coloring:   If you want to color your soap you can add liquified butter coloring for yellow.  As Ron’s grandmother probably discovered, pink colored soap can be made from pink roses or tulips.  A green color can be made using a few drops of extract from spinach, parsley, or beet tops. 

Borax: Borax quickens the sudsing action of soap because it holds down homemade soap’s tendency to curd in hard water.  It is also a natural fabric softener.  It isn’t chemically reactive when making soap, so use as much of it as you would like.  (2 tablespoons to 3 cups per can of lye)  Judge how much borax to add on the hardness of your water.   After you make a batch you can better judge whether to increase or decrease the amount of borax. 
Air:  If you want your soap to float like Ivory, fold air into it when it starts to have a creamy texture while making it.   Do it just as you would fold an egg white into a cake mix.  You can test it for floating by flipping a few drops in cold water. 
Rosin: You can add rosin to your soap, it will increase the lather that it makes.  The down side is it makes the soap softer and darker.  Rosin soap is great for laundry.  Add 8 ounces  of rosin to 5 1/2 pounds of fat, heat until the rosin melts.  When the rosin/fat drops to a temperature of 100 degrees add lye solution (1 can) dissolved in 2 1/2 pints of water.
Saponification:   Is the chemical reaction between fat, lye, and water that makes soap.  It can take several weeks for saponification to complete.  Aging soap is important, because when  it freshly made it still has lye in it, so age soap for a long time.
Lye to Fat to Water:  correct proportions are important.  (T = tablespoon  c. = cup)
Lye                  Fat                     Water
2 T                        1 c                          1/2 c
1/4 c.                   2c.                         3/4 c.
1/2 c.                   4 c.                    1   1/2 c.  
3/4 c.                    6 c.                   2   1/4 c.
1 c.                        8 c.                    3 c. 
1 1/2 c.                 12 c.                4   1/2 c.    
Your finished product will turn brown and smell bad if you have lose fat in it, and if you use too much lye it will burn your skin.  The mixing of the right proportions is important.
Cold Process:     Use an enameled kettle, never aluminum or cast iron, other things that will be handy is a floating dairy thermometer and house hold scales to weigh ingredients. 
1. slowly add the lye to the cold water.  Mix it outdoors or near a window and remember to use a wooden spoon or piece of wood.  Stir constantly until the lye crystals have dissolved.  Cool the solution 70 -75 degrees for lard, (pig fat) or 90 to 95F degrees for all tallow soap. 
2.  Melt the fat and pour when the lye/water solution is 75 – 80F degrees.  Melt to fat to the following temperature chart, and remember too high a heat will darken the soap and may keep it from setting. 
Type of Fat                    Temperature
vegetable oil                             110 – 115F
bear                                             115
goose                                          115
pork                                             120
beef                                             130
deer                                             130
sheep                                          130
3. pour the fat slowly into the lye water when each are at the right temperature.
4. Add the borax, perfume, coloring agent, or other extras.
5. Stir in one direction until you have soap.  This usually takes 15 minutes but it might happen in less time or up to an hour.  If you cooled everything off to the right temperature you shouldn’t have a problem.    It starts out dark colored but gets lighter.  You could also set the soap container in cold water to help it set, as a last resort.  If the soap is setting on the sides, but not in the middle, stir it faster or even beat it.  It is ready to pour when it gets thick like pea soup, or when the spoon will stand on its own for a moment.  If you pour too soon the soap may turn into two layers, a bottom hard and brittle layer, and an upper layer very greasy.   If you wait too long you will have air pockets and odd shaped bars.
6. Pour the soap into molds coated with vaseline.   The molds can be molds for bar soap or if making flakes for laundry you ca use used plastic containers, serving bowls, or cottage cheese cartons.  For bar soap line your molds with cotton cloth that has been dampened and rung out.  For bar soap you can use milk cartons, or glass pans lined with wax paper.  Most people wait at least 24 hours before cutting the bar soap into bars.  If you make long bars of soap and want  to cut them down, use wire crossed  over and  under the bar and pull on it to cut.  The vaseline gives the soap a nice surface finish.   Keep the setting soap away from heat, and also keep it from freezing.  It takes several days or just hours for the soap to harden enough to remove it from the molds.  To get it out of the mold, use a paring knife around the edge and pry it  a little.   Age the soap in a wooden box in open air for 8 to 10 months.  If  you need it badly you can probably get away with aging it for a little over a month. 
Storing Soap: After the soap has completely dried you can  wrap it in wax paper, tissue, plastic wrap, or paper envelopes.   Colored paper may stain the soap and aluminum foil will react to the alkalis.  To keep scented soap, be sure and wrap it. 
Abrasive Soap: to make mechanic’s soap add pumice, emery dust, or tripoli powder to your soap.

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