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With the approval in the Senate of S. 2165, Israel feels it has a new mandate for war against Iran with passage of this Bill, along with passage of H.R. 4133. Both bills were sponsored originally by Barbra Boxer and Eric Cantor; both Jewish and both receive funds from AIPAC. The Senate Bill has passed but H.R. 4133 has not passed yet, even though it has 304 other sponsors. Tea Party and warhawk Republicrat candidates just love AIPAC funds and so it will pass easily.
S. 2165 violates the Symington Amendment and Glenn Amendment along with others. S. 2165 increases U.S. loans to Israel, funding for more missiles and munitions, air refueling tanker aircraft, encourages Israel to join NATO, use U.S. satellites to gather information for Israel, and additional F-35 fighters. Not too bad for a country that deliberately attacked the USS Liberty and tried to start a war between the U.S. and Egypt.
All but the U.S. government admits that Israel has tested and has nuclear weapons. Obama dodges the question, while Jimmy Carter proclaimed that Israel had at least 150 nuclear weapons.

In the mean time, Turkey deploys tanks, rocket launchers, armored vehicles and anti-aircraft weapons along the Syrian border. While at Geneva and agreement was made on the Syrian question, with both Russia and China amending the agreement and insisting that Syrians need to determine their own fate. There is already a contention held by both sides concerning Assad. Russia and China are not in agreement while France and our own infamous Hillary can’t help but continue to utter “Assad must go”. Sounds like a lot was accomplished in Geneva, nothing has been resolved. If Assad stays, which he probably will, NATO will attack him saying the government has failed to honor the new peace plan which will eventually end with :

On the issue of missiles aimed at Russia by the U.S. has not been resolved, with Russia now declaring an option of a
pre-emptive strike on the missile shield. It won’t take much to start a nuclear war.

Tanning  Leather

This is also taken from the book The Encyclopedia of Country Living by Carla Emery. A book I find highly valuable in any survival situation.

Animal skin when fresh and unworked has 3 layers.  The outer skin is called “scarf skin”, it comes off with the hair.  The middle skin is called the “grain” and the inner skin is called the “flesh”.   The scarf skin peels off naturally, the flesh you scrap off.   The flesh is the fat and muscle that is attached.  The grain combined with tannin or other substances produces leather.  The grain is made up of gelatinous fibers filled with fluid.  In the tanning process the  fluids are removed.

Skinning and storing: Making either leather or fur begins with properly skinning and storing the hide. If you plan on a rug, begin by cutting length-wise along the belly, down the inside of the legs, and down the throat just below the mouth. Remove the skin in one piece. If you are going to tan the hide with the hair, make sure that no blood gets on the hair.
Fleshing:Once the animal is skinned you must scrape all the flesh and fat from it. If you don’t get it all off the hair will fall out later in the process. There are special tools, but you can use a knife, just take care and not make holes in the hide. This is a preliminary operation as later you will do some serious scraping. At this point you can take a break and put the hide in a freezer. It can be stored there for a month.
Salting: If you are planning on making rawhide or buckskin don’t salt the skin. If not, dampen the hide (if it has dried out), stretch it, and rub table salt liberally into the flesh side of the hide, about a half inch all over. You can’t use too much salt. Be sure and salt all the crannies and especially where the hide is thick. Roll up the salted hide fur side in. (At this point you can send the hide to a professional tanner) Store the hide in a cool dry place, with the salt intact for at least 4 days. Seven days is even better; shake, drain, resalt, and reroll. don’t store them longer, for if they spoil, you’ve lost the skin.
For hair on tanning, never let the sun get on the hide and don’t let it dry in folds.

Drying:For hair on, hang the hide by putting a hole in it, or hang it over something. After it has hung to dry it gets progressively harder and turns white. If it gets to hard, soak it in water for 1 to 6 hours. It probably now has a white glaze that must be removed before tanning. If you don’t remove the glaze your tanning solution will not work. Use a dull knife or a broken piece of glass and scrape the hide on the flesh side to remove the glaze. Fleshing it down to the root hairs.
At this point if you want the fur to remain on the hide, skip the following procedure.Put 6 – 8 lbs of unslaked (caustic) lime in a wooden barrel or plastic garbage can and slowly add 1 qt of water. Slowly so as to prevent the stopping the slaking action.  Warnings (don’t allow the solution to get in your eyes or on your skin, it will burn – if using plastic can don’t allow the plastic to melt ) After slaking is complete add 2 gallons of fresh water, mix thoroughly, with the hide submerged.  Stir the mix 3 or 4 times a day and test the hair.  When the hair can be rubbed off, and not pulled off, the process is complete.  Usually about 3 days for a deer hide.  Remove the hide from the solution and scrape in the direction of the hair using the back side of a knife (or a square edged tool).  Scrape the hair off all the hide and remove the  lime solution by either 1) placing the hide in a running steam for 3 or 4 days, or 2) soaking the hide in 20 gallons of water with 1/2 gallon of vinegar added.
Pickling the Hide: Fill a large plastic container with enough water to cover the hides. While stirring add 1 1/2 ounces of 65% sulfuric acid for each gallon of water.  (warning: never add water to acid a violent eruption could result, always do the reverse; add acid to water)
(Native Americans used urine as a pickling acid (uric acid), a source of sulfuric acid is automobile batteries) Now stir in rock salt until it will no longer dissolve (saturated solution). Let is soak 4-5 days or until the hide turns white. Test the hide by cutting a thin strip off to see if it is white on the cut side. Pour the water out. Thoroughly press the hide dry on a board or along a wooden beam.
Next take a similar amount of water and dissolve baking or washing soda to the saturation point. Soak the hide in this solution for at least an hour to stop the action of the acid. When this is done rinse out the soda solution and wring the hide by hand. Then rub a mixture of Neat’s foot oil and beef tallow into the flesh side of the hide. Next wash the hide with cool water and detergent and hang it to dry. When the hide is almost dry and still flexible, work the skin back and forth over wooden board, flesh side down, to soften it. Next pull and stretch the leather in every direction until it is white, dry, and flexible. If the hide feels oily, rub hardwood sawdust into it and brush it off.
Side Note: lime is important in a survival situation it can be used to cover human excrement to keep the smell and flies down or, Our Creator forbid, covering dead bodies for the same reason.
(Next Post I’ll continue with part 2)
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